Do You Really Need an Essence? Benefits Explained + Expert Picks for the Best Essences
If your skin often feels dehydrated, thirsty, or a little lacklustre, an essence might be the missing link in your routine. As a skincare expert, essences are one of the easiest yet most effective steps to add. Flooding your skin with moisture magnets and hydrating ingredients couldn't be easier, especially if you want to boost hydration and increase the performance of the products that follow.
In this blog, I’ll share everything you need to know:
What exactly is an essence
The difference between an essence and a toner
The benefits you can expect
My edit of the best essences I’ve personally tried and tested
What Is an Essence?
Think of an essence as a liquid hydrator, a drink for your skin. In Japan, they are often referred to as softeners. I like to think of them as boosters or activators; they “switch on” the skin, making it more receptive and optimising absorption and performance.
Essences bridge the gap between cleansing and serums. By deeply hydrating and prepping the skin, they allow serums and treatments that follow to absorb more effectively. You can expect intensely hydrated skin and enhanced performance from the rest of your skincare routine.
Flooding the skin with lightweight hydration, essences make the complexion more receptive, smoother, and radiant. They’re the ultimate skin boosters, priming your skin for maximum results.
Whilst they seem very trendy right now, they are by no means a new phenomenon. I believe Shiseido created the very first essence called Eudermine in 1897. This softener, despite various updates, remains available today.
How do Essences work?
The more the skin is hydrated, the better the skin permeability. When the stratum corneum (outermost skin layer) is dry, parched, dehydrated and taut, the cells are more tightly packed. This makes it harder for actives and your skincare to penetrate. Essences flood the skin with hydration and humectants (like glycerin and hyaluronic acid), drawing water into the skin. The skin becomes softened, flexible, and permeable, improving ingredient penetration. The more hydration there is in the skin, the better the skin permeability.
Essence vs Toner vs Serum
It’s easy to get confused about where essences fit; are they basically toners? Or are they more like serums? And do you really need all three?
A decade ago, toners had a very defined role in skincare; they helped rebalance the skin’s pH after cleansing, they were often alcohol based and used as a key part of your cleansing routine, which was essential at the time. Today, however, the lines are blurred. Modern toners often go beyond pH-balancing, now including exfoliating acids to refine texture, clear pores, and actives to give the skin a refreshing reset.
Essences flood the skin with lightweight hydration, making it more receptive and amplifying the performance of every product applied afterwards. You won't find emollients in essence like you will find in serums. They also tend to be the least likely product to cause pilling, so making skincare and makeup layering super easy.
Serums are where the targeted treatment comes in. Packed with concentrated active ingredients, they address specific concerns like ageing, pigmentation, or sensitivity. They are the “treatments for your skin’s future.”
Think of it like this:
Toner = reset and refresh
Essence = activate and amplify
Serum = treat and transform
How to Use an Essence
Always apply your essence onto clean skin before your serum. This allows it to act as a bridge, prepping your skin so everything that follows can absorb more effectively.
I personally prefer to use my hands, as cotton pads (or reusable makeup remover pads) can soak up too much product like a sponge. However, if you have oilier skin, you might enjoy the light exfoliating feel of using a pad; it really comes down to preference.
The same goes for the method of application; whether you press or sweep your essence across the skin is up to you. My advice? Don’t overthink it, just apply gently. I can confirm it's not going to scientifically make any difference to the efficacy.
Step by step:
Dispense a few drops into the palm of your hands (around a 5p coin size).
Evenly distribute the essence between your palms.
Gently pat or sweep the essence over your face and neck.
If your skin feels dehydrated, apply a second layer for an extra hydration boost.
Who Are Essences Best For?
The truth is, there isn’t a skin type or condition that wouldn’t benefit from an essence. That said, certain skin concerns will really see the boosting, moisture-quenching power shine through:
Dehydrated or dry skin - Essences flood the skin with hydration, instantly relieving tightness and discomfort.
Dull or lacklustre skin - With hydration comes radiance. Essences help restore glow and bring vitality back to the complexion.
Fine lines and wrinkles - Extra hydration plumps the skin, softening lines and enhancing the performance of serums that target firmness and elasticity.
Sensitive or stressed skin - Many essences include soothing ingredients that calm irritation while reinforcing the skin barrier.
Combination or oily skin - Lightweight and non-greasy, essences hydrate without heaviness. Pairing an essence with the right serum and SPF can form a simple yet effective routine, especially during the summer months.
What Are the Benefits of an Essence?
1. Intense Hydration and Moisture Replenishment
This is the primary reason most people reach for an essence. They’re packed with humectants and skin-loving ingredients that flood the skin with hydration. Since every skin cell relies on water to function properly, dehydration can cause cells, including fibroblasts (responsible for collagen and elastin production), to perform poorly. Essences restore the hydration skin needs to stay healthy, plump, and radiant.
2. Enhances the Effects of Your Skincare Routine
Essences soften the outer layer of skin and infuse it with water-based hydration, making it more receptive to serums and creams. Think of your skin like a sponge; a dry sponge doesn’t absorb well, but once it’s damp, it soaks everything in more effectively. Similarly, pre-hydrated skin can pull in serums, oils, and moisturisers far better.
3. Supports the Skin Barrier
Some essences are designed to strengthen and support the skin barrier, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss. A healthier barrier means calmer, happier and healthier, more comfortable skin.
4. Targets Specific Concerns
Beyond hydration, modern essences are often tailored to address key skin concerns:
Fine lines and wrinkles - with plumping hydration and active ingredients.
Dullness and uneven tone - with brightening or exfoliating elements to optimise natural cell turnover.
Sensitivity - with soothing botanicals to calm and rebalance.
The Best Hydrating Essences for Thirsty Skin - Expert Approved
Best Essences under £15
No7’s Good Intent Skin Slip is an essence-serum hybrid delivering lightweight hydration with a silky, elegant texture. It layers beautifully for an instant moisture boost without heaviness. The formula combines glycerin, propanediol, squalane, and multi-weight hyaluronic acid to drench skin in hydration and lock it in. Allantoin and Centella calm irritation, while Vitamin E and stable Vitamin C protect against daily stressors. Best for hydration and comfort, it’s not a barrier-repair treatment, so pair with a richer moisturiser if needed.
Best for dehydrated and normal to combination skins, fragrance-free, so great for sensitive skins.
BUY HERE - No7
Read my full review of the No7 Good Intent blog HERE
Best Essences under £25
Aestura Atobarrier 365 Hydra Essence is a milky, moisture-rich formula that delivers deep hydration and barrier support, and it’s one of my favourites. Powered by natural moisturising factor (NMF) components such as amino acids, urea, lactic acid, sodium PCA, cholesterol, fatty acids, sugars, and minerals, it replenishes and strengthens the skin barrier by mimicking what skin naturally produces. The lightweight texture absorbs quickly, leaving skin plump, hydrated, and comforted without heaviness. From Korea’s no.1 dermatologist-recommended brand, this essence reflects Aestura’s commitment to gentle yet effective formulas. Perfect for compromised skin in need of barrier repair.
Best for normal, combination, dry, dehydrated, sensitive skins and compromised skin barriers. Non-comedogenic and Fragrance-free.
BUY HERE - Amazon
BUY HERE - Sephora
Best Essence Under £30
Nip + Fab Ceramide Fix Base Build Moisture Milk 8% is a hydrating, essence-like treatment designed to slot between cleansing and serums. With its milky, lightweight texture, it instantly softens and comforts skin, absorbing quickly without residue. With barrier-boosting ceramides and ectoin to strengthen the skin's defences whilst improving moisture retention, and enhancing resilience. Squalane and phytosphingosine nourish with skin-identical lipids, while prebiotics support a healthy microbiome. Perfect for layering under serums, this step delivers daily hydration and barrier support in a fluid, replenishing format.
If you want to learn more about ectoin, be sure to check out this blog: The Multitasking Miracle Ingredient: Ectoin — Fiona Brackenbury
Best for all skin types, including oily and combination skin with dehydration. Fragrance-free and suitable for Vegans.
BUY HERE - Nip + Fab
I also can’t recommend enough combining this with the Ceramide Fix Serum and the Ceramide Fix Overnight Cream for the ultimate hydration trio.
Erborian Eau Ginseng Lotion is an ultra-lightweight hydrating essence that proves a featherlight texture doesn’t mean less performance. Almost watery in consistency, it’s perfect for oily, combination, or summer skin routines, delivering instant hydration without heaviness. Formulated with the brand’s White Ginseng Complex, it strengthens the skin barrier, calms inflammation, brightens, and defends against environmental stressors with antioxidant protection. Skin feels softer, smoother, and refreshed, with a healthy glow. Ideal for hot, humid climates or anyone wanting hydration that feels weightless yet effective.
Best for all normal, combination and dehydrated skins. Fragrance-free and suitable for Vegans.
BUY HERE - from Erborian
Laneige Cream Skin Cerapeptide™ Toner & Moisturiser is a K-beauty hybrid that delivers hydration and barrier support in one step. Ceramides replenish the barrier, while peptides support elasticity and firmness for long-term skin health. Antioxidant-rich green tea and camellia extracts calm and protect, while meadowfoam seed oil nourishes without heaviness. A blend of glycerin, squalane, hyaluronic acid, and tremella mushroom floods skin with moisture, offering up to 120 hours of hydration. With its ultra-lightweight, silky texture, it absorbs quickly, leaving a soft, dewy veil - perfect for layering.
Best for all normal, combination and dehydrated skins. Fragrance-free.
BUY HERE - Space NK
BUY HERE - Look Fantastic
Laneige Cream Skin Cerapeptide™ Toner & Moisturiser is identical in formulation to the LANEIGE Cream Skin Cerapeptide Mist, making it easy to top up on the go.
BUY HERE - Look Fantastic
Best Essences under £35
Rhode Glazing Milk is a lightweight, silky essence that delivers impressive hydration while layering effortlessly under serums and moisturisers. Lighter than Dr Jart’s Serum Toner but comparable in performance, it’s ideal for those who want a milky texture without heaviness. The formula combines ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, and beta-glucan, a humectant even stronger than hyaluronic acid, to strengthen the skin barrier, lock in moisture, and boost comfort. Vegan, gluten-free, and cruelty-free with Leaping Bunny and PETA certification, it leaves skin plump, nourished, and radiant.
Perfect for dehydrated, combination, sensitive and compromised skin barriers.
BUY HERE - Rhode
Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin™ Serum Toner is a toner–serum hybrid and one of my favourites for hydration and barrier care. With a silky, milky texture, it glides on like a serum but absorbs like a toner, making it perfect for layering. Formulated with five ceramides, glycerin, and panthenol, it reinforces the skin barrier, locks in moisture, and prevents transepidermal water loss. Skin feels instantly quenched, plump, and comforted, with long-lasting hydration. Ideal for dryness, sensitivity, or winter routines, it pairs beautifully with a barrier-repairing moisturiser for maximum nourishment.
Perfect for very dry, dehydrated, and sensitive skin. Fragrance-free.
BUY HERE - Sephora
BUY HERE - Space NK
BUY HERE - Look Fantastic
Best Essences Under £40
Shiseido Treatment Softener is a Japanese skincare classic, first introduced in 1897 with Eudermine. Softeners were loved by Geishas for soothing and hydrating skin under heavy makeup. Today, this modern formula delivers a double dose of hyaluronic acid for 24-hour hydration, leaving skin plump, smooth, and radiant. Beyond moisture, it features antioxidants and Shiseido’s InternalPowerResist technology to strengthen defences, plus Mukurossi Extract to target wrinkle formation. Lightweight yet powerful, it’s more than a hydrator; it’s a proactive treatment against ageing. Shiseido’s Treatment Softeners are a timeless investment in skin vitality, hydration, and longevity.
There are two versions to suit different skin types:
Treatment Softener: A lighter formula with a fresh, hydrated finish, ideal for normal to oily or combination skin. Perfect for summer!
Treatment Softener Enriched: A richer, more nourishing version perfect for dry or mature skin, especially in colder months.
Both do include fragrance, so best to patch test before use.
BUY HERE - Treatment Softener Shiseido
BUY HERE - Treatment Softener Debenhams
BUY HERE - Treatment Softener Enriched Shiseido
BUY HERE - Treatment Softener Enriched Debenhams
Best Essences £50 and under
Gatineau Collagene Expert Hydra Essence is one of my top recommendations for ceramide-rich essences, offering an effective way to replenish ceramides while delivering deep hydration. Though marketed as collagen-boosting, its real strength lies in supporting a peptide-rich routine, rather than directly increasing collagen. The formula blends ceramides, niacinamide, urea, and hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and plump even the driest skin. Added antioxidants (vitamins C and E) defend against environmental stressors, while peptides enhance resilience. A perfect prep step, it boosts hydration and improves absorption.
Perfect for all dry, dehydrated and sensitive skins. Includes fragrance, so I recommend to patch test before use if you have sensitive skin.
BUY HERE - Sephora
BUY HERE - Gatineau
Best Essences £60 and under
ILIA The Base Face Milk sits beautifully between a toner and a serum. Much lighter than Dr Jart+ Serum Toner, it offers lots of moisture while still feeling lightweight and layering seamlessly. Clinically proven to reduce redness, smooth texture, and strengthen the barrier, it creates the perfect foundation for any routine. With squalane and argan oil to replenish lipids, plus glycerin and hyaluronic acid for deep hydration, it leaves skin supple and conditioned. Linoleic acid, phospholipids, and allantoin further support ceramide production, soothe irritation, and keep skin comfortable.
Perfect for all dry, dehydrated and sensitive skins. Fragrance-free and suitable for vegans.
BUY HERE - ILIA
BUY HERE - Space NK
Best Essences £70 and under
Skin Rocks The Amplifier Performance Enhancing Essence is more than a hydrator; it’s designed to boost your entire routine. Clinically proven to double hydration, improve elasticity, and smooth skin, it features standout actives like NovoRetin™ to support retinoids, algae extract to stimulate hyaluronic acid, and sodium polyglutamate to lock in moisture. Antioxidant-rich guava, collagen fragments, and a super plum blend further strengthen, brighten, and protect the skin. The silky texture layers beautifully, leaving skin radiant, plump, and refined.
To learn more about the Skin Rocks The Amplifier, read here
Perfect for all skin types, including dehydrated and sensitive. Fragrance-free.
BUY HERE - Skin Rocks
Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Moisture Essence may be spendy, but it’s a standout. This silky formula delivers layered hydration with glycerin, sodium acetylated hyaluronate (a next-gen HA that penetrates deeper and resists environmental scavengers), and Padina Pavonica extract for lasting comfort. A mineral trio, zinc, magnesium, and copper, supports cellular energy, while lactobionic acid (a gentle PHA) smooths and refines without irritation. The lightweight texture absorbs beautifully, leaving skin plumper, fresher, and more radiant.
Best for dry or dehydrated skin, those very sensitive to fragrance should patch test first.
BUY HERE - QVC Home and Away Duo
BUY HERE - Elemis
Best Essences Over £100
SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, famously known as “miracle water,” is often referred to as the gold standard of essences. Over 90% of its formula is Pitera™, a proprietary bio-ingredient discovered from sake fermentation, rich in 50+ micronutrients that mimic the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factors. This powerhouse is ultra lightweight, hydrates, supports the barrier, balances pH, soothes irritation, reduces inflammation, and protects against oxidative stress. Pitera also boosts hyaluronic acid production while refining tone and clarity, making it ideal for dullness or pigmentation. With consistent use, skin looks brighter, smoother, firmer, and more radiant, a true cult classic.
BUY HERE - Stylevana
When layering an essence into your routine, one thing to keep in mind is texture. Below you’ll find a guide to help you choose by texture. If your skin is on the drier side and your routine is minimal, richer textures can feel more comforting. But remember, comfort doesn’t always equal the most hydration, so don’t get confused between the two.
From lightest to richest:
Thanks for reading
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