The Ordinary HA + Asiaticoside Lip Treatment Review: Does It Work?
Thank you, The Ordinary scientists, for making this about lip longevity rather than another traditional tingling lip plumper!
The Ordinary's NEW HA + Asiaticoside Lip Treatment promises to do more than simply hydrate dry lips. It's designed to visibly plump, smooth fine lines and improve lip definition, using a combination of Fermented Hyaluronic Acid, Asiaticoside and Goji berry extract.
But can a topical lip treatment really help with the visible signs of lip ageing, and what makes this formulation different from a traditional lip balm?
I've been taking a closer look at the science behind the ingredients and have had the opportunity to speak to The Ordinary's scientists about this brand new launch.
So, let's get into what makes this launch interesting, what the science tells us and, of course, how it feels on the lips!
Why Do Our Lips Age Differently From the Rest of Our Face?
Our lips are structurally different from the rest of our facial skin, which is why they need a slightly different approach to skincare.
The visible pink part of our lips, known as the vermilion, has a much thinner protective outer layer and lacks the sebaceous glands that help keep much of our facial skin naturally lubricated.
This makes our lips particularly vulnerable to moisture loss, dryness and environmental stress.
And just like the rest of our face, our lips change as we age.
Changes in collagen, elastin and the underlying supporting structures can contribute to thinner-looking lips, fine lines and a loss of definition. The natural colour of our lips can also become less vibrant.
What’s really important is we can't simply assume that ingredients studied on facial skin will deliver exactly the same benefits on our lips! A lot of brands have done just this!
The Ordinary considered the unique biology of lip tissue rather than simply creating another moisturising lip balm and only used ingredients that had the data to back up the efficacy on the lips..
What's Inside The Ordinary HA + Asiaticoside Lip Treatment?
Unlike a traditional oil-based lip balm that primarily works by forming a protective layer to reduce moisture loss, this treatment combines water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, bringing hydration and conditioning together.
And as a skin expert, this is something I think is so important!
There's a difference between adding hydration to the skin and simply helping to prevent the moisture already there from escaping.
Occlusive ingredients are brilliant at reducing moisture loss by helping to keep water within the skin, but they don't necessarily increase the skin's water content on their own. That's why I love seeing humectants such as Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid combined with emollients that soften, replenish, hydrate and condition the lips.
You're not just helping to keep moisture in, you're also helping to attract and retain water, which is particularly important for lips that are naturally more vulnerable to dehydration.
Double-Fermented Hyaluronic Acid
Much of the Hyaluronic Acid already used in skincare is produced through microbial fermentation. However, The Ordinary has taken this a step further with a double-fermentation process designed to create a complex containing different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid.
Why does this matter? Because the size of the HA molecules influences how they behave within the skin.
Larger molecules primarily sit on the surface, helping to attract and retain moisture, while smaller fragments have greater potential to penetrate the upper layers of the skin.
By combining different molecular weights, the aim is to provide hydration at different levels rather than simply concentrating on the surface.
Encapsulated Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid is naturally water-loving, but the skin barrier contains a lipid-rich structure, which can make it difficult for water-soluble ingredients to penetrate.
The Ordinary has incorporated encapsulated hyaluronic acid into an oil-compatible delivery system, designed to help it move through the lipid-rich environment of the skin's outer barrier and improve hydration within the upper layers of the lips.
By combining these two technologies, The Ordinary aims to deliver hydration at different levels, helping the lips feel softer, smoother and appear visibly plumper.
Asiaticoside
Asiaticoside is a molecule extracted from Centella Asiatica, a plant widely studied for its role in skin repair and otherwise known as Cica.
Research has explored its ability to influence collagen-related processes, including pathways involved in collagen synthesis.
The Ordinary has selected Asiaticoside for its potential to support the lips' natural collagen and improve the appearance of fine lines and loss of definition.
Goji Berry Extract
Goji berry extract is known for its antioxidant properties and has been included for its potential to improve the appearance of lip volume and definition.
We know that oxidative stress can contribute to the breakdown of naturally occurring hyaluronic acid within the skin, so protecting against free radical damage is another important consideration when looking after our lips.
Glycerin
The first ingredient, which I love seeing in a product designed to hydrate. Alongside Glycerin is Jojoba Oil and other emollients help soften, condition and reduce moisture loss, giving the formula that lovely cushioning feel.
Does The Ordinary HA + Asiaticoside Lip Treatment Actually Plump Your Lips?
Yes, but it's important to understand what we mean by plumping!
Unlike traditional lip plumpers that rely on ingredients such as Menthol or Capsicum to create a tingling sensation, this treatment focuses on hydration to make the lips appear naturally fuller.
Hyaluronic Acid and Glycerin help attract and retain water, while the emollients help keep that moisture where we want it.
And when our lips are properly hydrated, those little dehydration lines become less noticeable, giving the lips a smoother, plumper appearance.
But there's an important difference between plumping through hydration and replacing the structural volume we naturally lose with age.
A topical lip treatment can improve how full and smooth our lips look, but that doesn't mean it's replacing lost collagen or providing the same results as injectable fillers.
Can Asiaticoside Help With Lip Lines and Wrinkles?
This is one of the ingredients I was particularly interested in discussing with The Ordinary's scientists.
Asiaticoside has been studied for its role in wound healing and tissue repair, with research showing that it can influence collagen-related pathways, including TGF-beta signalling.
During wound healing, fibroblasts are involved in producing collagen to help repair damaged tissue.
Just because an ingredient has been shown to influence collagen synthesis during wound healing doesn't automatically mean it will stimulate collagen production in healthy, ageing lips.
We also need to consider whether Asiaticoside can penetrate far enough into the lip tissue to reach the cells responsible for collagen production.
So, while the science behind Asiaticoside is interesting, I wouldn't suggest that applying this treatment has been proven to rebuild lost collagen.
What we can say is that The Ordinary has selected an ingredient with promising research into collagen-related processes, alongside ingredients that can immediately improve hydration and the appearance of fine lines.
How Long Does The Ordinary HA + Asiaticoside Lip Treatment Take to Work?
You'll notice the hydration immediately, which is certainly what I experienced when I first applied it!
The Ordinary reports a 93% improvement in lip hydration immediately after application, and the brand has also investigated improvements in lip appearance over several weeks.
But immediate hydration and longer-term improvements in fine lines, texture and definition are two different things.
My First Impressions: Texture, Hydration and Comfort
The texture is gorgeous! It’s milky, silky and beautifully hydrating. It glides over the lips, feels incredibly comfortable and gives that immediate feeling of hydration without a hint of stickiness.
And thankfully, there's no tingling sensation or menthol in sight!
Especially as we head into winter, when our lips become more prone to dryness and discomfort. The last thing we need is a lip treatment that makes already dry, uncomfortable lips feel even worse.
It doesn’t feel heavy and greasy. There's a lovely balance between hydration and conditioning, and the finish is beautifully smooth.
And if you hate that awful feeling of your hair getting stuck to your lips, I think you're going to love this texture!
My Verdict: Is The Ordinary HA + Asiaticoside Lip Treatment Worth It?
I think The Ordinary has taken a really interesting approach with this launch.
Rather than focusing on creating a temporary tingling sensation, they've developed a treatment that combines immediate hydration with ingredients selected for their potential longer-term age-supporting benefits.
I particularly like the combination of humectants and emollients, the comfortable texture and the fact that the formulation considers the unique needs of lip tissue.
Of course, the longer-term claims around collagen support and improvements in lip definition need to be considered separately from the immediate hydrating effects.
But based on my first impressions, this is a lovely treatment for anyone wanting smoother, more comfortable, hydrated-looking lips without the stickiness of a traditional lip gloss or the tingling sensation of a conventional lip plumper.
BUY HERE The Ordinary
BUY HERE Space NK
Thanks for Reading
I hope you enjoy the skincare routine I have put together, and you have found this review helpful! As a small independent business, using these links helps me keep my website running and continue to provide these blogs for you. I’m often asked how you can thank me for my skincare advice - using these links is very much appreciated. Thank you for being part of this amazing journey with me!
Links may be affiliated links which means that if you make a purchase though one of our links we receive a small commission which helps support and run this website.